Col du Tourmalet is Pyrenean royalty. At 2,115 meters, it’s the highest paved pass in the French Pyrenees and has appeared in the Tour de France more than any other mountain—87 times since 1910. The name “Tourmalet” means “bad detour” in the local dialect, and while modern roads have tamed it somewhat, the climb still demands respect.
The Legend
When the Tour first crossed Tourmalet in 1910, it was a dirt track so difficult that riders pushed their bikes for hours. Octave Lapize, first over the summit, famously called race organizers “assassins” for including it. Today’s smooth tarmac makes it accessible to thousands of cyclists annually, but the thin air, length, and history still make this a bucket-list climb.
The Two Approaches
Western Ascent: Luz-Saint-Sauveur via Barèges
- Distance: 19 km
- Elevation gain: 1,404m
- Average gradient: 7.4%
- Maximum gradient: 10.2%
- Character: More gradual, steady, classic Tour de France route
Eastern Ascent: Sainte-Marie-de-Campan
- Distance: 17.1 km
- Elevation gain: 1,268m
- Average gradient: 7.4%
- Maximum gradient: 13%
- Character: Steeper, more varied, slightly shorter
Both sides average 7.4% but feel completely different. The west is the Tour standard; the east is steeper and more dramatic.
Western Ascent: Luz-Saint-Sauveur Route
This is the classic, most frequently used Tour de France ascent.
Km 0-8: Luz-Saint-Sauveur to Barèges Gradient: 6-7% Gentle opening through the valley town of Barèges. Use this to warm up properly.
Km 8-13: Barèges to Super-Barèges Ski Station Gradient: 7-8% Gradient increases as you pass the ski resort. Traffic thins as casual tourists turn back.
Km 13-17: The Middle Section Gradient: 8-9% The gradient is now serious and sustained. Long sections with limited variation. This is where mental discipline matters—find your rhythm and maintain it.
Km 17-19: Final Push Gradient: 7-8% You can see the summit structures ahead. The Col du Tourmalet restaurant/shop and the Giant of Tourmalet statue await. Don’t ease up early—it’s further than it looks.
The Summit:
- Octave Lapize monument
- Giant of Tourmalet statue (controversial modern sculpture added 2000)
- Restaurant/cafe (seasonal)
- Parking, usually full of cars and motorcycles
- Views: On clear days, incredible panoramas of Pyrenean peaks
Eastern Ascent: Sainte-Marie-de-Campan Route
Shorter but steeper, this route features more variation in gradient.
Km 0-6: Gradual Opening Gradient: 5-7% Pleasant warmup through valley. The village of Gripp marks the start of serious climbing.
Km 6-10: The Ramp Gradient: 9-11%, peaks at 13% The infamous steep section. Where the west is steady, the east punches you. This section breaks weaker legs.
Km 10-15: Sustained Climbing Gradient: 7-8% Still hard, but gradient eases compared to earlier. You’re now in exposed, beautiful terrain.
Km 15-17.1: Final Section Gradient: 7-8% Final push to summit. The last few hundred meters seem to drag forever as altitude and fatigue compound.
Best Time to Ride
Season: The pass typically opens in late May or early June and closes in October/November, depending on snow. Check current status before traveling.
Optimal Months:
- June: Road just opened, fewer cyclists, can still have snow at summit
- July: Tour de France usually comes through—incredible atmosphere if you time it right
- August: Peak season, warm, crowded
- September: Excellent weather, fewer crowds, highly recommended
Time of Day:
- Morning (7-9am): Coolest temperatures, clearest air, least traffic
- Avoid midday: Hottest, most traffic, afternoon storms possible
Tour de France: If the Tour includes Tourmalet that year, the atmosphere is electric—but expect massive crowds and road closures during the race itself. Go a few days before or after for the atmosphere without the chaos.
Practical Strategy
Which Side to Climb?
- First timers: West side (Luz) is more manageable
- Experienced climbers: East side (Campan) is more satisfying
- Full experience: Climb one side, descend, immediately climb the other (the “double Tourmalet”)
Pacing:
- West side: Steady state from start to finish—find your sustainable power and hold it
- East side: Conservative through steep middle section, then push on the easier final kilometers
Gearing:
- 50/34 with 11-32 is standard
- If you’re recreational or it’s hot: 34x34 removes any worry
- The steepest section of east (13%) demands easy gears
Fueling:
- 17-19km takes 65-100 minutes for most riders
- Eat before you start, carry 1-2 bottles, have gels/bars
- Summit cafe exists but don’t rely on it (seasonal hours, sometimes closed)
Clothing:
- Temperature drops ~12-15°C from base to summit
- Even in summer, summit can be 10-15°C (50-60°F)
- Wind at summit can be brutal
- Pack vest or light jacket, arm warmers
Historical Context
Tour de France Stats:
- First climbed: 1910
- Total appearances: 87 times (more than any other climb)
- Famous battles: Countless, from Bartali vs Coppi to Armstrong vs Pantani
Famous Moments:
- 1910: Octave Lapize’s “assassins” comment
- 1952: Fausto Coppi dominance
- 2000: Lance Armstrong’s mountain time trial victory
- 2003: Armstrong and Iban Mayo’s epic duel
Monuments:
- Octave Lapize memorial at summit
- Giant of Tourmalet statue (debates rage about its aesthetic merit)
- Various plaques commemorating Tour history
Difficulty Rating
Advanced to Intermediate: Tourmalet is a serious climb but accessible to fit riders with mountain experience.
Comparison:
- Harder than: Alpe d’Huez (higher, longer)
- Easier than: Galibier, Stelvio (not as high or as long)
- Similar to: Ventoux (comparable difficulty and length)
The altitude (2,115m) means thin air affects performance. The length (17-19km) requires sustained effort. Together, these make Tourmalet a legitimate test.
What to Expect
Physical: Your legs will burn. The sustained gradient gives no recovery. At altitude, breathing becomes labored even at moderate power.
Mental: No extremely steep sections to break you, but no easy sections to recover. It’s a test of sustained suffering—can you hold your pace for 70-90 minutes?
Crowds: In July-August, especially on good weather weekends, you’ll share the road with dozens or hundreds of cyclists. On quieter days, you might see just a handful.
Summit Scene: Unlike remote passes, Tourmalet’s summit is developed—restaurant, parking, memorials, crowds. It’s more carnival than wilderness.
The Descent
Both descents are excellent:
West to Luz-Saint-Sauveur:
- Smooth, wide, confidence-inspiring
- Good sight lines through turns
- Perfect for fast descending if conditions allow
East to Campan:
- Steeper, more technical
- The steep middle section descends quickly—brake early for turns
- Absolutely stunning scenery
Safety: Watch for:
- Other cyclists, especially slow descenders
- Cars pulling out for summit photos
- Variable road conditions after summit parking area
- Strong crosswinds at exposed sections
Combining with Other Climbs
Tourmalet sits at the heart of Pyrenean cycling. Strong riders combine it with:
Same Day Options:
- Tourmalet + Luz Ardiden: Classic combo (add 13km, 1,000m climbing)
- Tourmalet + Hourquette d’Ancizan: East side loop
- Double Tourmalet: Up one side, down, immediately up the other side
Multi-Day Tour:
- Pyrenean Circuit: Tourmalet, Aubisque, Aspin, Peyresourde over 3-4 days
- All the Giants: Add Hautacam, Luz Ardiden, and Aspin for complete Pyrenean experience
Why You Must Climb It
Tourmalet isn’t the hardest Pyrenean climb, but it’s arguably the most significant. The Tour de France history, the altitude, the perfect gradients, and the cultural weight make this essential for serious cyclists.
When you reach 2,115 meters and stand next to the Giant statue, you’re standing where Coppi stood, where Armstrong suffered, where Pantani danced on the pedals. That history is palpable.
Planning Your Trip
Accommodation:
- Luz-Saint-Sauveur: Charming spa town, good base for west side
- Bagnères-de-Bigorre: Larger town near Campan (east side)
- Barèges: Small ski town partway up west side, atmospheric
Book ahead in July-August.
Getting There:
- Fly to Toulouse or Pau, drive/bus to the valleys
- From Spain: Cross at Bielsa tunnel from Ainsa
Other Activities: The area offers hiking, spa towns, other cycling, and Pyrenean culture.
When you finally crest the summit after 70-90 minutes of sustained effort, join the stream of cyclists at the cafe, and stare out at layer upon layer of Pyrenean peaks, you’ll understand why Tourmalet has legendary status. It’s not just a climb—it’s a pilgrimage.
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